Regardless of how long it took us to get there, how pumping the waves are, how long its been since the last surf, my partner does not break the ritual of the pre-surf stare.
I used to think it’s his way of focusing on the surf, checking out the conditions and best spot to paddle in, however I realised regardless of the conditions he will still surf (I should know better) and it couldn’t be the latter as the habit still happens at our local break.
I used to get frustrated and impatient. (Seriously, there has got to be someone else out there who has a relationship with a surfer and has to deal with this long extended silent stare) I just did not get it! He was always so amped (how I feel when I see chocolate cake) and then as soon as we get there, rather than getting straight into it, he just stares at it! The crazy thing is, the better the waves, the longer it’s been since the last surf, the higher his anticipation, the longer the stare! (Unlike me, the more delicious looking the cake, the closer I am to it, the less time it has to live).
Over time It stopped bothering me because my patience grew as it seemed all surfers would do the same carpark glare, however it wasn’t until recently I developed a theory on the why. I realised it may be a form of mediation…
Reading about colour therapy, I thought how the blue sea tones bring calm and tranquility. So after some digging I learnt that staring at the ocean actually changes our brain wave frequency and puts us into a mild meditative state. The ocean breeze and smell soothes you while the blue colours calm and restore peace which may have something to do with the negative ions in the air that you’re breathing in. It then dawned on me, he’s not staring, he’s completing a pre surf meditation, his personnel way of zoning out and connecting with the earth, just watching each wave roll in, preparing himself for rolling out into the waves. Upon realising this I began respecting this moment and wishing this worked with me and chocolate cake.
My surf wife life has tested my patience over the years, but I have learned that taking him to the ocean ensures he is always in the best headspace, whether my theory is right and the pre surf stare makes him a better person or its just the endorphins generated from the physical output of actually surfing, he always comes out of that ocean stronger and more loving than ever.
If you have some more insight into my little surf theory, please share, I would love to hear what you think or know, or what I don’t.
Photo Location – Main Break, Margaret River, Western Australia