Pre Surf Stare – Margaret River, Western Australia

Regardless of how long it took us to get there, how pumping the waves are, how long its been since the last surf, my partner does not break the ritual of the pre-surf stare.

I used to think it’s his way of focusing on the surf, checking out the conditions and best spot to paddle in, however I realised regardless of the conditions he will still surf (I should know better) and it couldn’t be the latter as the habit still happens at our local break.

I used to get frustrated and impatient. (Seriously, there has got to be someone else out there who has a relationship with a surfer and has to deal with this long extended silent stare) I just did not get it! He was always so amped (how I feel when I see chocolate cake) and then as soon as we get there, rather than getting straight into it, he just stares at it! The crazy thing is, the better the waves, the longer it’s been since the last surf, the higher his anticipation, the longer the stare! (Unlike me, the more delicious looking the cake, the closer I am to it, the less time it has to live).

Over time It stopped bothering me because my patience grew as it seemed all surfers would do the same carpark glare, however it wasn’t until recently I developed a theory on the why. I realised it may be a form of mediation…

Reading about colour therapy, I thought how the blue sea tones bring calm and tranquility. So after some digging I learnt that staring at the ocean actually changes our brain wave frequency and puts us into a mild meditative state. The ocean breeze and smell soothes you while the blue colours calm and restore peace which may have something to do with the negative ions in the air that you’re breathing in. It then dawned on me, he’s not staring, he’s completing a pre surf meditation, his personnel way of zoning out and connecting with the earth, just watching each wave roll in, preparing himself for rolling out into the waves. Upon realising this I began respecting this moment and wishing this worked with me and chocolate cake.

My surf wife life has tested my patience over the years, but I have learned that taking him to the ocean ensures he is always in the best headspace, whether my theory is right and the pre surf stare makes him a better person or its just the endorphins generated from the physical output of actually surfing, he always comes out of that ocean stronger and more loving than ever.

If you have some more insight into my little surf theory, please share, I would love to hear what you think or know, or what I don’t.

Photo Location – Main Break, Margaret River, Western Australia

4 Comments

  1. Esther Dean
    February 18, 2018 / 9:09 pm

    Love the blog, what beautiful pictures xx

    • February 18, 2018 / 9:47 pm

      Thank you, your words mean so much to me as it can be so daunting launching a blog!!! You second guess on every word and every aspect of every photo!!! Thank you Miss Dean. x

  2. February 18, 2018 / 11:18 pm

    Haha I know all to we’ll what you’re talking about! Having surfed myself, for me it was always deciding where I wanted to sit out there and where I should paddle out etc, I’m sure for my other half its about weighing up if it could be better somewhere else! Ive been working on reducing his FOMO though!
    I recently started a blog too (much less polished than yours!) and wrote a post kind of about this too! The dreaded surf check – where they always end up back at the first spot!!! I don’t know how to link the exact entry but it’s http://www.jablogtravel.wordpress.com

    • February 19, 2018 / 1:10 am

      Hey! Thanks for sharing! I recently went to France last year and stayed along the coast. You are so lucky to have a coast that beautiful! How long are you in Western Australia for? Im heading down with my partner to Esperance on Friday, we only have a night there and then heading through to Adelaide (We have a camper and are travelling to Sydney over a week).

      I just checked out your blog its beautiful! xx

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